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alison@simplyperfectgardens.com
Ask Alison- 145
How Wild, My Flowers

What a great week with the rain, the holiday and the flowers.  What could be better than spring flowers preceding April showers?

Q:  Since I have a sunny area in the back yard, I was thinking of having a wild flower garden.  I want flowers all year.  How can I do
this?

A:  Well the fact is you do not want a wild flower garden then!  You may want to rethink this idea and change the concept to a flowering
perennial border.  You may ask why I am being so harsh.  Read on dear friend.

First I am going to talk about wild flowers.  As I drove up to see Kat and AJ (a few times lately) I was struck by the beauty of the native
flowers along Highway 88.  I can see how one would want to have the grand swath of color that the fields have especially this year!  
Here is the thing.  If you have a great deal of space and wonderful weed control methods, you too can have a grand show.  If your
space is limited, you will have a good show for a couple of weeks and then the whole thing goes into visual decline (like our hills) as
the plants seed and wait in a dormant state for rain.

I am not saying don’t grow wild flowers.  What I am saying is that wild flowers will appreciate it if you allow them a feeling of freedom
and, well, wildness.  There is a great source for California native seeds, Larner’s Seed.  They carry all kinds of mixes including
meadow mixes with native grasses mixed in.  This allows you to create a naturalistic meadow like area perhaps as a transition zone
between the lawn and a summer blooming perennial bed or a transition zone between well watered        a area and the un-irrigated
area next to your property. This way you can have a little piece of California color and then mow it down after the little darlin’s have
gone to seed.  

The same company has packets of just flower seeds.  To make matters even more interesting you can order for sun or shade, by the
gram, ounce or pound.  I would love to see what it would be like to seed large swaths of the local hills.  

Of course there is the weed issue.  If you do not wipe out the annual weeds from the area you will end up with a patch of invasive
exotics (that is the politically correct name for weeds).  Those darned invaders from abroad are tough competitors!  So what do you
do?  Rid of the area of weeds for a few months! Start now.  Water, weed, water, weed and if you can, do it one more time before fall.  
Sew wildflower seeds in late fall just in time for the rains, do not allow the area to completely dry out.  Watch for weeds, by now you
know each of them by first name. Weed all winter long.  In spring you will have a great show.  Allow the flowers to go to seed and dry
out for the summer.  Next year you can seed again and if all is well in the world you will have less weed control to do.

This wild flower stuff ain’t for the faint of heart.  NOW with that said.  You can buy one of those ready mix cans and sprinkle the
contents on the soil, cover with mulch and stand back.  Usually you will get a nice mix of color and only one or two of the flowers will
be native to your area and you run the risk of actually planting plants that are on the list of overly aggressive unfriendlys (another
name for weeds).

So what might be simpler?

If you go to a nursery with a good selection of 4” perennial plants about once a month, you can find the plants that are just about to
bloom and buy them.  If you start planting in one area and go around the yard you can have a succession of blooms that follows you
around… from near the kitchen for winter to by the pool in the summer.  There are diagrams of beds in about every magazine you
look in.  Try to think locally.  If you use plans that were drawn in England for England the plants will not perform as predictably as if
your dearest plant obsessive neighbor came up with the plan.  

Just a little off the subject.  When I was driving through Lockford on the way to see Kat n’ AJ, I saw a house.  I had noticed that it was
well maintained and that the trees were nice before (can’t help it that is how I see the world).  This time though the bulbs were
putting on one heck of a show.  Almost all Tulips and Hyacinth, hundreds of them.  In a couple of weeks they will be looking a bit
tattered.  In a month the place will be back to the same healthy green pallet.  

I use this colorful example to ask a question.  Do you really want a burst of color for a week or two in spring? Or do you want to have
color and texture through out the year?  My guess is that starting with a 5 x 10’ swath of wildflower color at the dry edge of your
property can be enough and then you can refine the plantings for seasonal interest all year.  This is in fact a banner year for wild
flowers.  Go to Death Valley, Anza Borrego or Phoenix this weekend if you can.  If not that well the Jepson Prairie, the Marin
Headlands, or any foothills you can get to will do the trick!

One of the things we can all do is to go to the wild flowers and help support them. Just paying the price of admission to your local
Park helps.  There are other things we can do too.  Whether it is giving time to the local Botanic Garden, Revegetation project,
rubbing money on the efforts of others or just being careful what we put in gardens to be sure that the plants are not too aggressive
for our neighborhood we can impact our area and help keep it functioning well.

Thanks again for the questions and positive feedback!  Just call and ask Alison (707) 747-9463 or write to
alison@simplyperfectgardens.com


Ask Alison
Ask Alison- 144
EWWWW Snails

Ahh spring time at last!  Oh please don’t misunderstand, I like life and any ol’ season has its good points.  It is just that I like the long
days, the warmth and the promise of watermelon.  As the days lengthen and the world comes alive again it is bound to happen…
questions about garden pests!

Q:  Last night I found a (yuck) snail in my cat’s food bowl.  I think is it a sign that I should start using snail bait but it seems so awful.  
What about using beer?  Or copper tape?  I have tried them both and not had much luck.  What would you suggest?

A:  Well you have been trying some of the really good stuff.  I will talk about both of those methods (pros and cons).  Let me first say that
as we go through this growing season I like to practice Integraded Past Management.  That means you watch the garden (keeping
notes if you are a brave soul) and look for indications that there is a problem starting.  Go after the problems in a timely fashion and
use the least toxic control methods first.

I think the least toxic snail control is the old’ snails like dark places method.  You find plants that snails like and put out rolled up
newspapers or shingles in a way that entices them to enter.  EVERY morning you go out and empty the area.  It is a bit gross but works
if you are consistent.  I tried it; I did not kill a great number of snails that way.  It seems that if you spray the collected snails with a 1:1
ammonia to water mix that will kill the captives.  Salt does not kill… it will make them scream and bubble but then they can re-hydrate.  
This is not for the weak of stomach.   

The next method (which you have tried) is the beer method.  I by the way am a beer drinker and I find it somehow wrong to share my
absolute favorite beverage with snails.  It works best if you set up a little pub area that is about 3” or more deep and covered with an
easy 360° entry way.  The snails have inexpensive taste when it comes to beer.  Many years ago a study was done by an organic
gardening publication, the snails liked Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer.  Luckily they do not seem to mind flat beer so one bottle will last days.  
The little beer of death kiosks should be emptied daily. You can make your own trap to fill or pick one up at the store.  Keep these near
the Hostas, and other snail food in the garden.

Then there is the copper tape.  It is so cool!  Snail slime will create a little electric charge when a snail tries to cross the copper line.  
So what is not to love about this?  1- it does not kill them. 2- the tape only works if you keep it from tarnishing.  3- the stuff is not cheap.  
So here is what I suggest.  If you have a nice raised bed of lettuce, put the tape around it as a first line of defense.  You will want to
rough it up with a little steel wool now and then (once a month I hear tell) to keep it working.  You can put a bit of copper around trees
(like citrus) to keep the snails off, just remember to keep it shiny clean.  

What about diatomaceous earth?  Well it seems to work but breaks down when it is watered in.  So if you have un-irrigated areas that
the snails go to, use it.  The drawback is of course that the snails like cool moist environments.  Now there is also the drawback that
the diatomaceous earth that is sold as an insecticide is costly.  My friend Janice used the stuff for cleaning pools.  I am not sure of the
purity of that product and it is not named on a label.  If it messes up your specimen Brugmansia (snails just love Brugmansia), I would
not be happy at all.

You can use a Bordeaux mixture of copper sulfate and hydrated lime mixture.  Just brush it on and it should repel (not kill) snails…
great for the citrus.  It is thought that adding a bit of latex paint will help the mixture be effective longer.  There is also a sticky mixture
with copper in it but there are ongoing debates about using a sticky trap directly on a tree If you do use it apply it to a banding material.  
You should always allow an overlap in banding material on trees so there is expansion space (incase the tree actually grows).

There is a predatory species of snail out there.  I have been seeing them in gardens lately.  It is against the law for us to buy and use
them. So when you see one your are seeing an outlaw.

There are many snail baits out there but only two active ingredients.  One is good in the Alison book of insect control; one is bad, bad
very bad.  

The active ingredient of choice is Iron Phosphate.  I like the name of one of the products (Sluggo).  All of the products that use this
active ingredient will run about twice as much as the other stuff.  The deal is that you only need half as much half as often.  Here is the
rub.  The snails do not die in public with this stuff, they get depressed and stop eating, going to a cool dark place to die.  So you cannot
“see that it is working” It is good to keep an eye on the nummy plants to gauge when it is time to put out more.  You will find little snail
graveyards when you use this stuff.  When it breaks down it leaves a little white mark but it is short term and when it breaks down it is a
bit of a fertilizer.  The real up side is that it will not kill pets

The last choice is the Metaldehyde.  It is really bad stuff.  A number of pets ingest snail bait.  Many pets eat this stuff and go to the vet
some of them don’t survive.  Since we can trace so many pet deaths to this stuff I often wonder how many birds and other wild critters
eat it too.  So I just recommend other options and in fact if you play mix and match with the other methods you can come up with a
program that works with your time and energy level.

So thanks for the questions. It is always great to hear from you.  Alison@simplyperfectgardens, 707-747-9463